As we soared above the scattered south Pacific islands, pristine coral reefs and tropical coconut plantations, I couldn�t help imagining what this magnificent island paradise was like 60 years ago. With Aircraft patrolling the skies, carrier ships and destroyers keeping a watchful eye on the coast line, hangers, tented basses and hospitals along with thousands of US troops sent here during the time of the war. Now years later with almost no reference of the war I knew this was going to be a magical week of memorable scuba diving combined with spectacular sightseeing.
The Republic of Vanuatu, formally known as New Hebrides, is made up of an archipelago in the south Pacific some 1000miles east of Australia, just West of Fiji and south of the Solomon Islands. Thirty years after gaining its independence from British and French rule, Vanuatu and its people the Ni-Vanuatuans now humbly welcome tourism and visitors with open arms.
Our purpose here was to indulge in the historic wreck dive of the SS President Coolidge, the world�s largest and most accessible shipwreck. Built in the late 1930's by the Dollar Line Shipping Company the Coolidge was a marvel of her time, departing from San Francisco she par took on numerous Trans Pacific luxury voyages and was considered to be one of the fastest luxury liners of her time, carrying 870 passengers. In 1941 the Dollar Line Shipping Company was commissioned by the US Navy and the Coolidge, among many, were transformed into troop carriers transporting troops, precious cargo and much needed medical supplies to US troops in the south Pacific. Captained by esteemed civilian, Captain Henry Nelson, she headed on what was to be her maiden and ultimate voyage under "US military rule�. Upon arrival at Espiritu Santo orders were misinterpreted and she had the misfortune to be struck by one of the US laid mines guarding to be what seemed the 'obvious' entry to the natural harbour the US were inhabiting. With all best intentions in mind to the ship, cargo, medical supplies and the 5000 troops on board Nelson turned the 800ft vessel to land and ran aground on the nearby shore. Ordering the troops to leave possessions behind, thinking all would return safely to salvage belongings and supplies, he gave the order to abandon ship. All 5000 troops and crew safely walked ashore. Sadly the fate of the Coolidge was sealed and within the next 90 minutes she had resided down the sandy bank and assumed her final resting place with her bow now lying at a depth of 60 feet and stern well below recreational limits at 220 feet. The SS President Coolidge has remained in her final resting position, port side down, for the past 69 years and has since provided a haven for marine animals and divers alike. It is the Coolidge and her mysteries that continue to awe new divers and seasoned veterans alike after each visit.
After a brief introduction to "Mr Coolidge", and soon to be inducted into the Diving world of fame, Alan Powers, we headed down to the entry sight. (After a brief history about the demise of the vessel one can't help imagine 5000 troops safely walking ashore on what was then an uninhibited and virgin beach front) Having the wreck within such ease of accessibility and varying depth makes this an ideal dive for all types of diver�s, novice and seasoned professionals alike. During a briefing by our guide it becomes clear the local Ni-Van guides are passionate about the Coolidge and her history and were ready and eager to share their experience with us. Our guide, Lionel, later admitted that he had done well over 5000 dives on the wreck alone and humbly admitted that his boss Alan however has a staggering number of 25 000 dives spanning over the past 40 years. He has dedicated his passion to the monument with his passion clearly transcribed through his loyal and dedicated staffs who are clearly continuing his legacy.
Due to the sheer size, detail and depth of the wreck all dives are considered decompression dives and provisions are taken accordingly with the inclination of the coast and the tropical waters making it ideal for long safety stops used for out-gassing excess nitrogen accumulated during the dive. Tanks are staged at two of the shallow stops for divers needing additional air. Along with the tropical coral and vibrant reef fish one or two of the divers will always find a way to entertain the others on the extended safety stops and time passes by quickly.
A few days into the trip and with sufficient orientation to the ship I was awarded the opportunity to head off on a solo dive. Armed with sufficient gas supply I wandered aft to the stern of the magnificent vessel and it wasn�t long before the magnitude of the Coolidge captivated me as it has so many visitors before. Mark was finishing off his wreck course doing some basic penetration and line drills with Mark which was a great excuse to slip off and let the student and the master do what they do best. Later that evening we went on a night dive, all divers know that night diving brings out magnificent sights and wonderful creatures, but nothing could have prepared me for what was to unfold during this dive... Lionel ordered us in the water, lights off at 6pm and after a brief OK we descended down to the dining area. It was just light enough to follow the glow of his bubbles in the moonlight and the neon phosphorescent trailing in his wake. Here we were escorted a slight way into the ship and it wasn�t long before what seemed to be millions of flash light fish were surrounding us all flashing an iridescent blue glow. A sight truly magnificent, we then proceeded toward the bow using a simple route we had done the previous day, passing by the galley and stack of GMC field vehicles left behind. Exiting the ship Lionel took us a few feet away to where he knew a Juvenile Bat fish resided, yet again another magnificent and first sight for me.
A trademark dive was still to be revealed, a dive to see �the lady�. The lady is a 3 foot porcelain statue standing next to a unicorn that was signature of the Dollar Line Shipping Company. She has remained in the vessel since her maiden voyage and it is customary to kiss the lady to bring good fortune to all who visit her. Lionel took the lead and partook on what he must have done numerous times. His grace and respect for the lady and the ship becomes clear with every action.
The Coolidge still holds many mysteries and during our week of diving we were fortunate to have seen such things as the barber�s chair, captains bathroom, med supplies, still containing much needed quinine at the time, the mosaic lined pool, engine room, where the captain�s final command can still be seen and much more. All of these sights are accompanied by warm waters, ideal conditions, tropical fish and an everlasting smile by our cheerful guide Lionel followed by coffee and hot buns at Alan�s house.
Our last day and the one reserved for �out gassing� and a good excuse to do the tourist thing. We were taken to see some of the wonderful and historic sights of the island of Espiritu de Santo including overgrown WWII runways, levelled out fields used for tented hospitals providing refuge to malaria stricken troops, B-series plane wrecks and a more recent yet still desolate fishery. The people of Santo cherish their beautiful island and use the resources for cattle and coconut plantations where the by-products of coconut oil called Copra is made and sold.
All in all the entire trip to Vanuatu was a great success with Mark finishing his wreck speciality on what is unmistakably one of the best wreck dives in the world.
Many thanks to all the staff in Santo that helped make this trip valuable and as memorable as possible...
....I HOPE TO RETURN SHORTLY
Posted by Ross Anderson
on October 07 2017 18:37:55 ·
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